This will be the first note I’ve posted on my neglected blog since starting my new journey as a Sommelier at one of the most iconic hotels in the world, nestled in the heart of the Canadian Rockies and surrounded by a beauty that few places on Earth can match.
A week ago, I organized a wine tasting to celebrate International Pinot Noir Day. Since it was aimed at the general public, it needed to be simple and accessible to any level, including those who are new to the wonderful world of wine.
You’ll find the wine tasting notes and pairings below, but in this reflection, I’ll dive a little deeper beyond the tasting itself, talking about the importance of age (of vineyards and people), the wisdom of Nature, experience, and the true, natural “rhythm of life.”
Throughout the week following the tasting, I continued tasting and retasting the four wines to analyze their evolution as they “breathed,” focusing especially on the two most complex and exceptional wines.
Since it was an introductory tasting, we took a brief journey through four different regions: Okanagan Valley, Oregon, Santa Cruz Mountains, and Burgundy.
It’s clear that Oregon alone deserves half a dozen in-depth tastings to even begin exploring such a wonderful region, particularly its iconic Willamette Valley. As for Burgundy, I would say it takes a lifetime to even begin to know it well, and the limits—whether in terms of pleasure, financial cost, or the diversity of nuances—are beyond the sky, reaching close to infinity.
Anyone lucky enough, like I’ve been, to have tasted (and retasted) those Grand Crus like Chambertin, St Vivant, Richebourg, Clos de la Roche, Musigny, Corton, La Tâche, Grands Echézeaux, Bonnes-Mares… from legendary producers like Leroy, Romanée-Conti, Mugnier, Rousseau, Trapet, Vogüé, and so many others, knows exactly what I mean. But this reflection isn’t about the excellence of the best Pinot Noirs in the world—it’s about the value of experience and the importance of “slow cooking.”
I remember one of my many trips to Champagne, visiting Egly-Ouriet, and discussing the importance of old vineyards, something that doesn’t seem to be as valued and talked about in Champagne as it is in other wine regions of the world. However, Egly-Ouriet’s wines had “something special,” a complexity and minerality that went beyond what’s imparted by the winemaking process alone. In a region that looks for “acid bombs” in its base wines to create beautiful and complex sparkling wines through almost magical alchemy, Egly-Ouriet enjoys the benefit of old vines.
An old vineyard on its own is just one variable. If it’s in a poor location, having old vines is like trying to cook a great dish with bad ingredients. It’s not enough, even if the recipe is perfect.
However, an old vineyard located in a prime spot is the foundation of what we call terroir. Those deep roots, which have “suffered” throughout a long life, struggling and digging deep through the layers, losing the vigor of youth that pushed them to produce lots of fruit. Over the years, they may only produce one, two, or at most three clusters, sometimes not even every year, extracting the pure essence of that terroir, those soils, and that climate.
To sum up what I observed during that week after the tasting: both the Okanagan and Oregon wines were entry-level wines, and they served their purpose well. Simple wines—Okanagan is still in its “learning curve,” experimenting, an honest and humble wine without much to offer at this stage. The Oregon wine was a festival of fruit, pleasure without complexity—a perfume on the nose, a pleasant sip in the mouth, delicious but simple, an introduction. Burgundy and California, however, played in a different league—not the NBA or the Champions League (that’s reserved for the Grand Crus mentioned earlier), but they were a step above entry-level, with more depth.
The Burgundy wine initially stood out as the “winner,” expressing more complexity than the others, where the fruit was just one element among layers of damp forest, lightly spiced, elegant, refined, delicate... but two days later, it was still there. It didn’t grow or gain complexity; it just plateaued and lost some punch. It was a good region, good terroir, but in Burgundy, you need to know how to choose the producer, as some are world-class and others are more modest. This one stayed within its limits—an interesting wine, nothing more, nothing less.
The Californian wine from Santa Cruz Mountains confused me during the tasting, to the point where I opened a second bottle due to some suspicious reduction notes (TCA, Brett?). Even so, it quickly placed second during the tasting. However, this wine evolved spectacularly in the following days, growing and growing until it became the most “Burgundian” of all the wines. The delicious fruit always remained front and center, but behind it were layers upon layers of complexity—earthy, mineral, floral, and delicate. The texture (do we talk enough about how important texture is in wine?) was delightful—smooth yet firm, serious, and perfectly integrated tannins… a sensory pleasure that invited you to take a sip, and as with all great wines, the long finish in the mouth made you savor it as long as possible before the next sip. A week later, the wine is still fully alive, without oxidation or increased volatile acidity. Simply delicious.
In this tasting, which of course is just a snapshot and should never be forgotten, despite Burgundy being the birthplace of Pinot Noir and Oregon following closely, California was the winner. Was it California, or was it the age of the vineyard?
As we said earlier, it’s not just the age of the vineyard—it’s one variable among others, like elevation, proximity to the Pacific Ocean, soils, the producer, and everything else that makes up a great terroir. But this vineyard is old—60 to 80 years old.
These vines have struggled, they’ve “gone deep,” they’ve overcome the “superficial,” like silver-haired people, like grandmothers slow-cooking meals with love, without rushing, marinating things the night before, with the wisdom of a lifetime.
Today, certain values are being lost, like respect for experience or for the wisdom of Nature. There’s a new generation of sommeliers with vast theoretical knowledge—scholarly even—but lacking in discernment.
In this world of social media and appearances, I see many young people who think it’s important to learn how to taste “technically,” how to hold a bottle, or to know the latest grape variety approved in Romania, or that a low-intervention, organic producer is automatically synonymous with quality.
However, if you ask these same young people which was the first wine that moved them and why… they have no answer, because they don’t know. They haven’t tasted great wines, they haven’t “felt” great wines. And what you don’t know, doesn’t exist. They haven’t developed their own taste; they’ve only accumulated vast amounts of “knowledge.” Scholarly ignorance.
If you like Champagne, do you follow Peter Liem or the latest YouTube influencer reviewing cool Proseccos and Rosés?... Do you follow Jancis Robinson or Wine Folly? If you like Cava, have you tried Recaredo? Do you like Caymus, seriously?
A piece of unsolicited advice for the younger generation: don’t make the mistake of disrespecting silver hair, old vines, the slow rhythm of life, critical thinking, and grandmothers cooking with love. It’s a mistake that’s all too common these days, probably because of the frantic pace of life, the prevailing superficiality, and big cities, I suppose.
In a great wine, a truly great wine, the tasting note is always the same, especially if you’re surrounded by experts: Master Sommeliers, Masters of Wine, professional critics, or the world’s best winemakers… the tasting note of a great wine is always SILENCE… because the wine begins a dialogue with your inner child (much wiser than your damn ego), and you stop “thinking” and start “feeling”… and you can’t find the right words to describe what you feel—language becomes a prison. That’s why we like poetry, because it breaks the boundaries and rules of language. A great wine is exactly that—liquid poetry (is that explained in your WSET manuals?).
The best winemakers I know do what they do out of pure passion, out of love, and they don’t need fame or recognition. They don’t need to explain their philosophy to the world… their “vibe” is enough to sweep you off your feet. The “business” is just a consequence (you have to make a living somehow), but it’s not their motivation or “why.”
Ask yourself why you want to be a sommelier or learn about wine. If the answer is “snobbery,” think again… because the keyword is PASSION (in the wine world and in anything else you do in life).
I’m just warming up… thanks for letting me have this little “venting session” … easing some tensions.
And now, here’s the tasting we held a few days ago:
International Pinot Noir Day.
Good afternoon, everyone! Welcome to Fairview Bar. My name’s Sal, and I’m the sommelier.
Today, we’re celebrating International Pinot Noir Day. For the occasion, we’ve put together something like a journey—through four wines from four different regions of the world. Each one will show us, in its own way, the unique faces and styles that this mysterious and challenging grape can express.
We’ll start in Santa Cruz Mountains, California, then head to the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, move on to Willamette Valley in Oregon, and finally, we’ll end in the French Burgundy region.
We’ve paired each of these wines with a different cheese to complement the experience.
Let’s begin by getting to know a little bit about the Pinot Noir grape itself. It’s a notoriously difficult grape to grow—both in the vineyard and in the glass. That’s why it’s often called the “Heartbreak Grape” … or the “drama queen” of the vineyard.
It has a very thin skin, is sensitive to temperature, prone to disease, and really needs the right climate and terroir to thrive. Basically, there are a lot of chances for something to go wrong with Pinot Noir, often resulting in disappointing wines... but when it all goes right, Pinot Noir can give us wines to die for.
Some legendary critics, like Jancis Robinson, say that Pinot Noir can produce the most seductive red wines in the world… and I totally agree (although it can also be the most disappointing). The balance between subtlety and intensity, lightness and complexity, can be truly sublime.
It might just be the red grape that best reflects the land, or terroir, it comes from. It’s like a bottled landscape.
With its thin skin, light body, gentle tannins, and high acidity, Pinot Noir is almost the opposite of a bold, robust Cabernet... yet sometimes, the complexity of aromas and flavors in a great Pinot Noir makes it one of the most prized, expensive, and sought-after wines in the world—especially from Burgundy, where some wines reach such elegance, finesse, and complexity that they become truly addictive.
An iron fist in a velvet glove.
Wine 1: Arnot-Roberts Peter Martin Pinot Noir 2017 (Santa Cruz Mountains, California)
The Santa Cruz Mountains is a rugged, cool-climate region known for its high elevation and proximity to the Pacific Ocean, which moderates temperatures and extends the growing season. This unique terroir results in Pinot Noir with vibrant acidity and complex minerality. The Arnot-Roberts Peter Martin 2017 Pinot reflects this, delivering bright red fruit flavors such as cranberries and raspberries, with subtle earthy notes. The 2017 vintage in the Santa Cruz Mountains produced wines with focused intensity and elegance, thanks to cooler conditions that preserved natural acidity. This is an old vineyard, perhaps more than 60 years old on average. It is important to note how an old vineyard with its deep roots and low production can elevate the quality of a wine.
Appearance:
Pale ruby in color, with a slight translucency, typical of cool-climate Pinot
Noir. Bright and youthful in the glass.
Aroma:
On the nose, there’s a fresh bouquet of cranberries, raspberries, and
wild red cherries, interlaced with subtle notes of rose petals
and a touch of earthy forest floor. There’s a slight hint of coastal minerality
and a whisper of spice, reflecting the influence of the Santa Cruz Mountains'
elevation and proximity to the Pacific.
Palate:
The palate is vibrant and light-bodied, with precise, red
fruit-driven flavors, including pomegranate, wild strawberries,
and cranberries. Bright, mouthwatering acidity balances the fruit, and
fine-grained tannins lend structure. The wine finishes with a savory, herbal
edge, alongside faint notes of citrus peel and a lingering mineral
undertone. Elegant and complex, reflecting the cool vintage and
the rugged terroir of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Cheese Pairing: Truffle Soft Goat Cheese
The earthy and slightly pungent flavors of Truffle Soft Goat Cheese bring out the floral and red fruit notes of the wine, while its creamy texture complements the wine’s natural acidity. The truffle adds a subtle complexity that mirrors the Pinot Noir's underlying earthy tones.
Key Quote:
As Jancis Robinson once said,
Pinot Noir "rewards patience and a discerning palate." This Santa Cruz Mountains example
reflects the elegance and precision she admires in great Pinot. With its
cool-climate acidity and mineral backbone, this wine perfectly embodies the
unique characteristics of the region, offering both delicacy and structure that
highlights the rugged terrain and proximity to the Pacific Ocean. A beautiful
balance of freshness and complexity, it’s a true testament to the quality of
Pinot Noir from this high-elevation site.
Pinot Noir's Global Exploration
Before we move to the next wine, let’s briefly talk about how Pinot Noir has traveled the world. While Burgundy remains its spiritual home, in the last few decades, Pinot has found new expressions in places like Oregon, South Africa, New Zealand, and Canada. What makes Pinot Noir so fascinating is how it reflects the terroir, or the natural environment, of the region it’s grown in—everything from the soil to the climate affects the final product.
Burgundy is still the undisputed king when it comes to Pinot Noir... but in these new regions of the world (there are more of them, for example Tasmania), things are evolving very quickly and they are on the right track in many cases, although still on the "learning curve". On the other hand, Burgundy has its own problems, which we will discuss later.
Wine 2: Tantalus Pinot Noir 2021 (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia)
The Okanagan Valley is quickly establishing itself as a top region for Pinot Noir. The Tantalus 2021 Pinot shows a vibrant mix of ripe cherry and herbaceous flavors, with a crisp streak of acidity. The 2021 vintage was marked by a long growing season, which helped develop rich fruit flavors without sacrificing freshness—a hallmark of great Okanagan Pinots.
Appearance:
A bright, medium ruby hue, with good clarity and a youthful vibrance in the
glass.
Aroma:
The nose opens with an expressive mix of ripe cherry, cranberries,
and a hint of raspberry. There are fresh herbal notes of sage and
thyme, as well as underlying earthy tones of wet stone and a
subtle spicy oak presence. The cooler climate of the Okanagan Valley
shines through with this vibrant and refreshing bouquet.
Palate:
The wine is medium-bodied, with flavors of ripe red fruit, including cherries
and red currants, that are elegantly balanced by refreshing acidity.
There’s a lovely mineral backbone and subtle herbal complexity
that enhances the mid-palate. The tannins are fine-grained and
well-integrated, leading to a clean, slightly spicy finish, marked by a
touch of cedar and earthy undertones. The 2021 vintage delivers a
wine that is both fragrant and precise, with a focused, energetic
finish.
Cheese Pairing: Triple Cream Brie
The rich, buttery texture of Triple Cream Brie contrasts beautifully with the wine’s bright acidity. Its mild flavor allows the wine’s subtle herbal and fruit notes to shine through, while the creaminess of the cheese adds an extra layer of indulgence to the pairing.
Fun Fact:
Wine expert Steven Spurrier compared Okanagan Pinot Noirs to those from New Zealand’s Central Otago, highlighting their “precise fruit expression and vibrant acidity,” qualities clearly showcased in today’s Tantalus.
The Elegance of Oregon Pinot Noir
Oregon, particularly the Willamette Valley, is often compared to Burgundy because of its cool climate and the finesse of its wines. But don’t be fooled into thinking Oregon Pinot Noir is just a Burgundy knock-off. According to Jancis Robinson, Oregon strikes a balance between the elegance of Burgundy and the fruit-forward style of New World wines. You get the best of both worlds—bright red fruit, acidity, and a lovely minerality.
What has happened in Oregon, especially in the Willamette Valley, in just a few decades is one of the most fascinating stories in the wine world today.
I highly recommend following in their footsteps and trying wines from wineries like Domaine Serene, which are reaching incredible levels of quality comparable to the best Pinot Noirs in the world.
Wine 3: Stoller Pinot Noir 2022 (Willamette Valley, Oregon)
The Stoller Pinot Noir 2022 from Oregon’s Willamette Valley is youthful and fresh, with lively notes of raspberries and red cherries alongside floral undertones. The volcanic soils of the region add a distinctive mineral complexity to the wine. The 2022 vintage in Oregon produced bright and fruit-forward wines, thanks to warmer growing conditions that brought out ripe fruit flavors without compromising acidity.
Appearance:
Brilliant medium ruby, showing a slight purple hue that speaks to its youthful
nature.
Aroma:
A highly aromatic nose featuring fresh red cherries, wild raspberries,
and a burst of red plum. There are subtle floral undertones, with hints
of violet and rose petal. Mineral notes of wet stone and volcanic
soil add depth, with just a faint touch of baking spice and cedar
in the background.
Palate:
This wine is juicy and fruit-forward, with ripe flavors of red
berries and cherries supported by vibrant acidity. The wine is
medium-bodied with a silky mouthfeel and a fine tannic structure. There’s a
lingering mineral element, along with hints of cinnamon and clove
that round out the finish. The 2022 vintage produced wines of bright, fresh
fruit, balanced by Oregon’s hallmark elegant structure and lively
acidity.
Cheese Pairing: Comté 2 Years Maple Smoked
The maple-smoked Comté adds a smoky depth to the pairing, while its nutty and slightly sweet profile enhances the wine’s red fruit and mineral notes. The cheese’s rich, savory character complements the wine’s refreshing acidity, creating a perfectly balanced experience.
Key Insight:
Oregon winemaker Ken Wright emphasizes how the state’s cooler climate helps Pinot Noir maintain its vibrancy and freshness. The Stoller 2022 demonstrates that beautiful balance of elegance and power.
Back to Burgundy: Pinot Noir’s Home
We must be fair and say that so far, we have tried decent wines, but they are introductory wines.
The wine we will now taste from Burgundy is a step up in quality.
But to be completely fair I must say that the introductory wines from Burgundy are also better than those from other areas, although they are also five times more expensive.
No Pinot Noir tasting would be complete without a stop in Burgundy, the region that made this grape famous. Burgundy Pinot Noir is often described as more restrained and elegant, focusing on earthy flavors, minerality, and subtle fruit. In Burgundy, it’s all about terroir—the vineyard site plays a massive role in the final product. Each vineyard has its own microclimate, its own soil composition, and thus its own unique expression of Pinot Noir.
Not in vain, although the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy dates back to Roman times, for more than seven centuries every centimetre of land, every tiny change in orientation of the vineyard has been carefully studied, providing us with extremely different wines (both in quality and price and style) sometimes separated by only a few metres from each other.
As Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, has said, “Pinot Noir is like a mirror. It reflects the character of the place where it is grown with unrivaled clarity.”
Wine 4: Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru, Maison Champy 2017 (Burgundy, France)
We finished with a classic Burgundian Pinot Noir—the Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru 2017 from Maison Champy. This wine displays the quintessential Burgundy qualities of earthiness, mushrooms, and a subtle hint of spice, all balanced by delicate redcurrant flavors. The 2017 vintage in Burgundy was highly regarded for its elegant, structured wines, thanks to an ideal growing season with cool nights and sunny days.
The villages of Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton are the ones that surround the magical hill of Corton, one of the most special Grand Cru in all of Burgundy. About half of the hill is dedicated to the Chardonnay grape, providing some of the best white wines in the world: Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru. The other half is dedicated to Pinot Noir, providing the legendary red wines of Corton Grand Cru.
Appearance:
Light ruby with a slightly garnet hue, showing moderate transparency and
classic Burgundian elegance.
Aroma:
The nose is quintessentially Burgundian, with complex aromas of redcurrants,
wild strawberries, and a touch of cranberry. Earthy notes of forest
floor, mushrooms, and damp leaves dominate, along with hints
of cloves, spice, and a trace of flint. There’s also a
faint whiff of violets, adding a floral elegance.
Palate:
Delicate yet structured, the palate offers layers of red fruit,
including redcurrants and pomegranate, mingled with savory,
earthy notes of truffles and autumn leaves. The wine is
medium-bodied with fine, silky tannins and fresh, bright acidity that keeps the
flavors vibrant. The finish is long and complex, with mineral notes of limestone
and a subtle spicy edge, reflecting the classic terroir of this
Premier Cru site in Burgundy. The 2017 vintage brought excellent balance and
precision, offering an elegant and restrained style that will continue to
evolve with age.
Cheese Pairing: Gouda
The Gouda, with its sweet, nutty character and firm texture, contrasts nicely with the wine’s earthy and spicy notes. The cheese’s richness enhances the wine’s depth, while its slight sweetness highlights the Pinot Noir’s minerality and red fruit.
Anecdote:
“Pinot Noir is the grape that truly speaks for the earth. It is fragile, sensitive, and requires the utmost respect. But when grown in the right conditions, it is the truest expression of terroir in the wine world.” Lalou Bize-Leroy believes that Pinot Noir is at its finest when handled with a light touch, allowing the natural character of the grape and vineyard to shine.
Lalou is a living legend in Burgundy. She is perhaps the most influential and important person in the world of Burgundy wine, producing many of the finest, most award-winning and most expensive wines in the world.
Conclusion: Global Pinot Noir Styles
The best Pinot Noirs from outside Burgundy share a deep connection to their unique terroirs and a focus on elegance over power. In Oregon, the wines offer a bright, mineral-driven profile, often more subtle and ethereal, with a balance of fruit and earth. The Okanagan Valley in Canada is producing Pinots that combine cool-climate structure with bright fruit and earthy nuances, hinting at further potential as the region’s vineyards mature.
These regions are all proving that while Burgundy remains the benchmark for Pinot Noir, other parts of the world can offer expressions that are equally compelling, with their own distinct regional signatures.
Pinot Noir is often called the most transparent of grapes, reflecting the soil, climate, and the hand of the winemaker. From the bright, fruit-driven styles of Oregon and Okanagan to the earthy complexity of Burgundy, we’ve seen how this grape transform depending on where it’s grown.
I hope this tasting has shown you just how versatile and exciting Pinot Noir can be. Whether you prefer the crisp, floral notes of the Sonoma Coast, the delicacy and elegance of the Santa Cruz Mountains or the soulful, earthy tones of Burgundy, there’s a Pinot Noir out there for everyone.
Thank you all for joining me today. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the wines, and feel free to enjoy some more wine and cheese as we continue to explore these amazing pairings.
Cheers!
Sal
Sommelier
