Academic
knowledge of the world of wine is necessary, as a basis and foundation. All
those WSET courses and derivatives, encyclopedic knowledge as foundations on
which to continue moving forward.
But
that said, what is happening in the last ten or fifteen years and, above all,
at the frenetic pace at which it is happening, forces you to a permanent
update, to endless learning. And all this happens worldwide. There are
thousands of new talents contributing new visions, or recovering old ones in an updated way, and this happens both
in emerging or “new” areas and in the most classic and historical wine regions.
Of
course, we have cases of wineries, authors and styles that have succumbed and
will continue to perish because they do not have a generational relief, but the
majority are the opposite cases, where new generations take over, together with
the new actors that appear. In this new scenario, these actors no longer
conform to the bureaucracy cutting their wings: if they cannot do what they
think is appropriate to achieve their goal because the “regulation” prevents
it, many of them renounce the regulation, labeling their wines outside the
imposed bureaucracy.
Using Deleuze / Guattari terminology, the molecular is overflowing with
the molar, the rhizome grows uncontrollably and overflows at the root, living
times where that fragile balance is shown in apparent chaos.
If
we talk about Italy, it is no longer about the spectacular advance of the
South, about the revolution of Sicily and its regal volcano, but about such
“classic” zones (appropriate quotes) as Barolo or Barbaresco, where activity
and changes are vibrant ( stand for a moment to measure the size of an area
like Barbaresco). It is not only about the commercial lesson that Prosecco
gives Cava, but about the enhancement of great white wines, or the explosion of
native varieties and the “hell” of natural wines, wherever you go.
For
some time now there is no point in any of the old debates: Old and New World,
Traditional and Modern, Varietal or Blend, Cru or mix of Crus. Even the borders
between Atlantic, Continental, Mediterranean and many other dichotomies, remain
as reactionary and totally outdated arguments.
In case some more spice was missing to season the stew, we have Climate
Change going crazy, yes, also in the world of wine.
Nothing
new in the Vineyard of the Lord ... is a mathematical question: more knowledge
multiplied by more speed and elevated to globalized information ... with an
exponential result, for better and for worse.
Welcome
to the 21st century. Whoever dares, to show how "dogmatic" is ...
Vibrant,
exciting and even chilling ... place your bets and, if you are engaged in this
matter, put the batteries on yourself ...
Salvador Lopez
salva@spaincultureandmore.ca
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